Combined Review: Olympus E-PM1

by Chris Gampat on 09/27/2011

The Olympus EPM1 (or E-PM1 and EPM-1) is a camera that is seemingly targeted towards those that don’t know much about the technical aspects about photography or in some cases, not much about it at all. With this statement said, this isn’t a camera for myself or anyone on my staff—we’re all very experienced. When this camera ended up at my doorstep, I was challenged on how I could do it justice. And then…it hit me.

Today I am publishing a very special review. As many veteran photogs know, there are those of us who lean more towards the technical side of things and those that sway more towards the creative side. To do this review, I called up my friend Belinda Heiman to assist in this. She’s a growing photographer that leans more towards the creative side of things and has just restarted her business with the creation of her Facebook and Twitter pages. As a result, this review will be done from two different points of views: mine and hers. It will focus mostly on using the camera as this audience will be very happy with the image quality in general.

Tech Specs

Borrowed from the B&H Photo listing of the product.

Type Micro Four Thirds digital
Memory SD/SDHC/SDXC/UHS-I
Eye-Fi Class 6 recommended for Movie shooting
Lens Mount Micro Four Thirds
Effective Pixels 12.3Mp
Screen Size 3.0″ (16:9) LCD, AR (anti-reflection) coating
0.7 x 0.5″ / 17.3 x 13.0mm
460,000 pixels
Playback field of view: 100%
Brightness control: +7 levels and -7 levels
Color temperature: +7 levels and -7 levelsLive View
Type: Image Sensor (High Speed Live MOS) type
Field of view: 100%
Display mode: Normal mode; Grid Line mode (4 types); Histogram mode; Magnified View mode; Comparable View mode; Off mode
Magnification ratio: x5, x7, x10 (default), x14
Monitor information: Aperture value, shutter speed, auto bracket, AE lock, AF mode, IS, shooting mode, battery check, myset, internal temperature warning, face/eye detection, histogram, number of storable still pictures, record mode, ISO, sequential shooting, self-timer, white balance, metering mode, AF confirmation mark, exposure compensation value, spot metering area, flash mode, flash status, flash intensity control, super FP, touch panel condition, focusing length, tone control, Eye-Fi condition
Face detection: Max 8 frames
AF: High speed imager AF
Sensor High Speed Live MOS sensor
Total number of pixels: 13.1Mp
Aspect ratio: 1:33 (4:3)
Filter array: Primary color filter (RGB)
Dust reduction: Supersonic Wave Filter
Aspect Ratio 4:3(Default), 3:2, 16:9, 6:6, 3:4
Process: RAW: Aspect ratio is recorded as Exif data; JPEG: JPEG image is produced based on the aspect ratio
Recording Formats Still: DCF, DPOF compatible/Exif, PRINT Image Matching III
Video: AVCHD, AVI Motion-JPEG
Audio: AVHCD – Dolby Digital; Motion-JPEG format / Picture with Sound: Wave Format Base (Stereo PCM/16-bit, 48KHz)
File Format Still: RAW (12-bit lossless compression), JPEG, RAW+JPEG, MPO (3D)
Image Size Still
RAW: 4032 x 3024; JPEG: 4032 x 3024, 640 x 480
File Size RAW: 4032 (H) x 3024 (V) (approx. 1/1.5 lossless compressed) approx. 13.9MB
Set 1 (LF): 4032 (H) x 3024 (V) (1/4 compressed) approx. 5.9MB
Set 2 (LN): 4032 (H) x 3024 (V) (1/8 compressed) approx. 2.7MB
Set 3 (MN): 2560 (H) x 1920 (V) (1/8 compressed) approx. 1.1MB
Set 4 (SN): 1024 (H) x 768 (V) (1/8 compressed) approx. 0.3MB
Movie Modes AVCHD Format
Full HD Fine: 1920 (H) x 1080 (V), 60i recording, 20Mbps, aspect 16:9
Full HD Normal: 1920 (H) x 1080 (V), 60i recording, 17Mbps, aspect 16:9
HD Fine: 1280 (H) x 720 (V), 60p recording), 17Mbps, aspect 16:9
HD Normal: 1280 (H) x 720 (V), 60p recording, 13Mbps, aspect 16:9
Frame rate of image sensor output is 30fpsMotion-JPEG Format
HD: 1280 (H) x 720 (V), 30fps (some art filters are excepted), aspect 16:9 SD: 640 (H) x 480 (V), 30fps (some art filters are excepted), aspect 4:3 (VGA)
Compression Ratio Motion-JPEG format: 1/12 (HD), 1/8 (SD)
File Size Video: AVCHD: 4GB max; Motion-JPEG: 2GB max
Maximum Recording Time Picture with Sound: 30 seconds
Movie: 29 minutes Full HD Normal, HD Fine, HD Normal: 29 minutes; Full HD Fine: 22 minutes; Motion-JPEG: HD: 7 minutes, SD: 14 minutes
Audio Mic/speaker: stereo/mono
Image Stabilizer System: Built-in (imager shift image stabilizer)
Mode: 3 modes (IS1:2 dimensional activation, IS2:1 dimensional activation in landscape frame to vertical direction moving, IS3:1 dimensional activation in portrait frame to vertical direction moving ), OFF
Manual function: Input focal length 8, 10, 12, 16, 18, 24, 28, 30, 35, 40, 48, 50, 55, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 100, 105, 120, 135, 150, 180, 200, 210, 250, 300, 350, 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000
Shutter speed range: 2 – 1/4000 seconds (Not available in bulb)
IS for movie: Shifting electronic image (Digital IS, IS1 modes)
Focusing AF system: Imager Contrast Detection AF system (with with AF compatible lens)
Focus mode: Single AF (S-AF); Continuous AF (C-AF); Manual Focus (MF); S-AF + MF; AF tracking (C-AF + TR); C-AF and AF tracking are not available with non-Micro Four Thirds lenses
Advance AF: Available
Focusing point: 35-area multiple AF with the contrast detection system (Auto, selectable in option)
Focusing point selection: Auto from 35-areas; 9 Group Target areas; Auto when face detection is on; Free selection when Magnified View Mode is selected
Illuminator: Available
AF lock: Locked at first position of shutter button in Single AF mode
Focus tracking: Available
Magnified Spot AF: Available
Face priority AF/Eye Detect AF: Available; Eye Detect AF: Off; Near side eye priority mode; Right side eye priority mode; Left side eye priority mode
Manual focus assist: When rotation of focus ring is detected under S-AF+MF or MF mode, LV is magnified automatically
Exposure Control Metering system: TTL Image Sensor metering system(1) Digital ESP metering (324-area multi pattern metering); (2) Center weighted average metering
(3) Spot metering (approx. 1% for the viewfinder screen. Highlight / shadow bases are available)
Metering range: EV 0-20 (Digital ESP metering, center weighted average metering, spot metering, at normal temperature, 17mm f2.8, ISO 100)
Exposure mode: (1) iAuto; (2) P: Program AE (Program shift can be performed); (3) A: Aperture priority AE; (4) S: Shutter priority AE; (5) M: Manual; (6) Scene select AE; (7) Art Filter; (8) Underwater wide / Underwater macro (Selectable from menu as a function on Rec/Fn button)
Scene select AE: Portrait, ePortrait, Landscape, Landscape + Portrait, Macro, Sport, Night Scene, Night + Portrait, Children, High Key, Low Key, DIS mode, Nature Macro, Candle, Sunset, Document, Panorama, Fireworks, Beach & Snow, Fisheye Conv, Wide Conv, Macro Conv, 3D
ISO: AUTO: ISO 200-12800 (customizable, Default 200-1600) / Manual ISO 200-12800, 1/3 or 1 EV steps
Exposure compensation: -/+ 3 EV in 1/3, 1/2, 1 EV steps selectable
AE lock: Available (Using Rec/Fn button is available)
Exposure bracketing: 2, 3, 5 frames in 0.3, 0.5, 0.7, 1 EV steps selectable, 7 frames in 0.3, 0.5, 0.7 EV steps selectable
Metering standard value adjustment: 1/6 EV step, +/- 1 EV range
Exposure Control Movie: Exposure mode: (1) P: Program AE; (2) A: Aperture priority AE; (3) S: Shutter speed priority AE; (4) M:Manual; (5) Art Filter
White Balance Auto WB system: High Speed Live MOS sensor
Preset white balance: 7 settings (3000K – 7500K), Lamp (3000K), Fluorescent (4000K), Daylight (5300K), Flash (5500K), Cloudy (6000K), Shade (7500K), Underwater WB
White balance compensation: -/+7 steps in each A-B/G-M axis (in Auto WB/Preset WB mode/One touch WB)
CWB (Kelvin setting): 1 setting can be registered at Kelvin temperature (2000-1400K)
One-touch white balance: 2 custom settings can be registered
White balance bracketing: 3 frames in 2, 4, 6 steps selectable in each A-B/G-M axis
Color Modes Color space: sRGB, Adobe RGB
Picture Modes Mode: iEnhance, Vivid, Natural, Portrait, Muted, Monotone, Art Filter
Adjustment parameter: Contrast, Sharpness and Saturation level available in 5 steps for iEnhance, Vivid, Natural, Portrait and Muted, Contrast and Sharpness level available in 5 steps for Monotone, 3 effect levels are available in i-Enhance
Filter effect: Yellow, orange, red, green filter available for Monotone
Picture tone: Sepia, Blue, Purple, or Green tone available for Monotone
Gradation: 4 levels (Auto, High key, Normal, Low key)
Art filter bracketing: Available
Noise Noise filter: At high ISO setting: Off, Low, Standard, High; At slow shutter speed: Off, On, Auto, On (effective when shutter speed is slower than 1 seconds); Auto (effective when shutter speed is slower than 4 seconds [at ISO 200 or higher] or 8 seconds [at lower than ISO 200])
Shutter Product type: Computerized focal-plane shutter
shutter speed: 60-1/4000 seconds; Bulb: Up to 30 minutes (selectable longest time in the menu, Default: 8 minutes)
Self-timer: Operation time: 12 seconds, 2 seconds (cancel available)
Remote cable release: Available (Optional RM-UC1)
Drive Drive mode: Single-frame shooting, sequential shooting, self-timer
Sequential shooting speed: 4.1fps in sequential shooting (5.5fps in case of “I.S. Off”)
Flash External flash
Guide number: 10 (Fno/m) at ISO 200, 7 (Fno/m) at ISO 100 but ISO 100 is not available
Mode: TTL-Auto, Manual (Full, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, 1/64)
Color temperature: 5500+/-400°K
Wireless flash control: Available(4 channels, 4 groups)
Compatible external flash: E-System Flash (FL-50R, FL-36R, FL-50, FL-36, FL-20, FL-14, FL-300R)
External flash control mode: TTL Auto, Auto, Manual, FP-TTL-Auto, FP-Manual
Flash mode of external flash: Auto, red-eye reduction, red-eye reduction slow sync., slow sync at 1st curtain, slow sync at 2nd curtain, fill-in, off
Synchronization speed: 1/60-1/160; Super FP 1/125-1/4000 with external flash
Flash intensity control: Up to +/- 3 EV in 0.3, 0.5, 1 EV steps
Filter Mode: Pop Art, Soft Focus, Grainy Film, Pin Hole, Diorama, Dramatic Tone
Variation/Effect: Available
Multi Exposure Number of pictures: 2 frames
Functions: Auto gain, Live View, Exposing on Recorded picture
Playback Playback mode: Single-frame; Information display; Index display (4/9/25/100 frames, calendar); Close-up (2-14x); Movie (with sound, FF/REW/Pause); Picture rotation (manual); Slideshow (still, movie, still+movie, slide show with BGM, BGM+sound, sound); When camera is connected to HDTV with HDMI cable, 2 new slideshow effect can be selectable (still)
Information display: Histogram (independent luminance/RGB available); highlight/shadow point warning, AF frame, shooting information
Menu Language Japanese, English, French, German, Spanish, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Traditional Chinese, Simplified Chinese, Russian, Czech, Dutch, Danish, Polish, Portuguese, Swedish, Norwegian, Finnish, Croat, Slovenian, Hungarian, Greek, Slovakian, Turkish, Latvian, Estonian, Lithuanian, Ukrainian, Serbian, Bulgarian, Rumanian, Indonesian, Malay, Thai
Editing Erasing function: Single frame, All, Selected frames (from index)
Protect function: Single frame, Selected frames, All frames, Release protect (Single, All)
RAW picture editing: RAW development based on settings of the camera (including Art filter)
JPEG editing: Shadow adjustment, Red-eye fix, Cropping, Aspect, Monotone, Sepia, Saturation (color depth), Resize (producing another file, 1280 x 960, 640 x 480, 320 x 240), ePortrait
Connections USB 2.0 (for storage through multi-connector)
HDMI mini type C
Hot shoe
Accessory port (AP2)
Power Requirements Battery: BLS-1 lithium-ion battery
Sleep mode: 1, 3, 5 minutes, selectable
Number of recordable pictures: 300 shots (CIPA test standard)
With 50% flash light: With BLS-1 and Toshiba Class 6 SDHC 4GB card under CIPA test standard
Environmental Temperature
Operating: 0 to 40°F / -18 to 4.4°C; Storage: -20 to 60°F / -29 to 16°C
Humidity
Operation: 30 to 90%; Storage: 10 to 90%
Construction Metal
Dimensions 4.31 x 2.5 x 1.5″ / 11.0 x 6.4 x 3.8cm
Weight 7.65 oz / 0.2kg
Body only
9.34 oz / 0.3kg
Battery and memory card

Video Tour

Belinda Heiman’s Review

Editor’s Note: This is her first review and in some ways, will relate the most to the specific audience that leans more towards the creative side of the photography world. All photos in this section were shot by Belinda.

The Olympus E-PM1 is a small piece that does not weigh a lot in my hands.

The external surface of the camera is very smooth and slick. It would be nice to see this piece in the future with more grip material such as the kind you would find on an SLR. There is almost no room to hold the camera in a steady position, and it is scary to switch a lens when the exterior is so smooth. The camera could easily slip out of grip on to the ground. However, she does her job and I didn’t have many issues. (Belinda, like me, names her cameras after female names.)

What’s nice about the menu is that as one scrolls over a letter, a tab automatically pops up on the LCD screen with a description of what that letter means. What’s not so great about the menu is that there is a lot going on at once.

I was initially having an issue with my images being too blue at first. It was a matter of changing the white balance, which was not easy to find. I asked a professional photographer for some help. It took him a few minutes, and his response was, “That was not easy to find.” I was surprised that such a tiny body was so complex internally.

Even deleting a picture can be complicated at first, because the option seems to be hiding and you must scroll through a list to get to it. At first, I couldn’t help to think about a scenario where a girlfriend would be hovering over and yelling at me, “Delete that right photo now!” I then imagined getting scolded for “pretending” not to be able to find the delete option, when in fact, I really couldn’t.

The trick was figuring out that the “OK” button is the key to most places you are trying to get to on this camera. Once you master the “OK” button, she should function like a breeze. If I would have read the manual first, I’m sure we would have become friends a lot sooner. However, my objective was to see how user-friendly she was and I didn’t want a cheat sheet.

The manual focusing on the lenses is good and easy to use. The images are very sharp on the zoom lens as well, but it is not my favorite. The best lens was the 17mm.

The art options would be very cool; there is even a pinhole option. However, the effect, very disappointingly, looks like a slight vignette achievable in Adobe Lightroom. Once you chose an art option, it is hard to change it; the menu cannot easily be accessed again unless you scroll over, chose another option and then return to the art tab. I know, very complicated.

Like every new toy or tool, it takes a minute (figuratively speaking) to get acquainted. Let’s just say this Olympus E-PM1 takes 5 minutes (figuratively speaking). If you can get over the complexity of the controls, then this camera takes great sharp images. I may almost go as far as saying it is comparable to my Nikon D40 I had in college with the 18-55mm lens.

Ergonomics

The EPM1 is a small camera designed for the fashionista; and this is evident in its looks. It is sleek, smooth, and nearly button free. In the hand, it feels like an Olympus XZ-1. The styling is much more akin to a point and shoot, and designed for those that just want to shoot and not worry about any of the more technical aspects of photography.

The top of the camera is cleanly styled with nothing more than a hot shoe, on/off button, and focusing button. Plus, you’ve got microphones on the camera’s top as well.

The back is dominated by a giant LCD screen that isn’t as high quality as I’d really like it to be. The back also features a video recording button, info button, menu button, playback button, dial, and directional setting buttons. The right side also has a textured grip panel to it for easier holding.

Autofocus

The EPM1′s autofocus is the same as the Olympus EP3s. By that, I mean that it has the new MSC system that works with the processor, sensor and lens to achieve super fast focusing. Indeed, it can achieve the same focusing speeds as the EP3. During my time at the US Open with this camera, I felt that the continuous focusing wasn’t smart enough to keep up with the fast moving tennis players. By that, I mean that I would focus on the tennis players, and the camera would track them; and it sure did track quickly. However, they sometimes moved so fast that the camera eventually thought that something else (like the wall behind them) was what it was supposed to track.

It it absolutely worth it to note though that in low light, and with the 12mm f2 lens that I reviewed very favorably, the focusing was still spot on and lightening quick. With the other MSC lenses, it always will be quick. The moment that you slap an older lens on there, like my 17mm f2.8, the focusing will be slow. We demonstrate this in the video above, but this also happens with the Olympus EP3.

Image Quality

Photo by Belinda Heiman

The EPM1 renders skin tones very accurately in my opinion, though sometimes it has the tendency to render images more towards the cooler side of the spectrum. Don’t even try to custom white balance with this camera.

For the audience that this is targeted towards, they’ll be happy with the image quality and most people may not even think about inspecting the image at 100% at all.

Then I thought about that statement again: what if a student wanted to purchase this camera?

If a student wanted a camera, they should go with the EPL3 instead. Or, if they could, spring for the EP3.

Like other Olympus cameras, it really shines in good, natural light. In the dark, the noise can be a bit much but is easily fixed. I showed this with the EP3 in a previous post.

High ISO Images

During the review of the EPM1, both Belinda and I didn’t often shoot images above ISO 1600. But here are my findings:

- For the most part, the ISO rendering is like the EP3′s. However, the EP3′s is a bit better.

- Fixing the noise requires you to first turn off noise reduction in the camera. Then in post-production, you should edit accordingly in order to retain the most detail but get rid of that nasty image noise.

Will the audience that is using this camera mind? They probably would unless they apply the noise filters. Additionally, they will probably be shooting JPEGs for the most part. And this camera has a great JPEG output. The people using this camera, once again, won’t look for the most minute of details for the most part.

Ease of Use

For the ease of use test, I put this camera through the ultimate of trials: my mom. My mother is from a third world country and grew up on a farm and in a time where the technology around was very close to what America had back in the 1870′s. However, she was always an avid hobbyist photographer and owned an Olympus OM77 which we still have around the house. To this day, she mourns its loss because the shutter became sticky and jammed.

Putting this camera in her hands and trying to walk her through it was quite an experience. Normally, she can barely even figure out how to print something correctly let alone figure out the television remote. And no, I’m not kidding. My sister and I always have to retrain her how to do things.

When I put the camera in her hands:

- I asked her to turn it on. She had to get her glasses to do so. She is 54 at the time of the publishing of this story and her eyes are getting bad. When she put her glasses on, she figured out how to turn the camera on.  (Olympus may want to work on having bigger print for the visually impaired. They did this with the Olympus E-520 DSLR back in the day.)

- When the camera was turned on, the back told her to unlock the lens. She looked all around the camera until I told her to remember that the camera said that there is a lens issue. Then by analyzing the lens, she unlocked it.

- Then the screen was all black. She looked at the lens and was able to figure out that the lens cap was still on.

- And now to take a photo. She straight up pressed the shutter release without really letting the camera focus. I can tell, because the photo she tried to take of me was very blurry. Then I told her to lightly press the shutter button to let the camera Autofocus. She noted that the green box always seemed to follow my face.

Then she tried taking the photo again and it was a success.

- Now to view and play the image back: I told her to think about the symbols that she had used to enable a video tape to play on a VCR. She looked around the back of the camera, but her eyes focused more towards the center dial and with the way she gripped the camera, she couldn’t really see the playback button. Then she saw it and was able to view my photo.

And to get to the next image, she thought that she needed to press playback again. Unfortunately, that returned her to the shooting screen. She pressed playback and this is where I aided her to show her that she needed to turn the back dial to see the next photo. Olympus could have done a better job by instead making this button/dial seem more like a fast forward or advance button.

- And then I asked her to change a lens, as she happily remembered how to do that. First off, she forgot that she needed to press a button to release the lens. However, she did remember that when putting a new lens on, one must line up the red dots to do so.

If I didn’t tell her to turn the camera off before changing the lens though, she wouldn’t have remembered. These people must be educated to do this lest their sensors become dirty. To be fair, Olympus’s cleaning system is top notch.

Conclusions

In the end, can I recommend the Olympus EPM1? I’m still not so sure. When in the hands of a seasoned veteran, it’s best to just leave the camera in aperture priority and shoot to your heart’s content. However, it does seem to underexpose the images a bit.

The user interface and menu just screams out, “Don’t open me.” Indeed, it is much like the older Sony NEX system cameras, though the interface has improved with the NEX 5N, NEX C3 and the NEX 7 (which I have also tested.) Most people that try to use this interface will perhaps just give up. When I wanted to display the rule of thirds grid, I asked the reps how to do it. I eventually found it, but even they noted that one really needed to dig into the system to find it.

Will a pro or serious hobbyist be impressed by the image quality? In most cases, yes. In the high ISO dept., the Fuji X100 spoils it for everyone; with a co-worker of mine even noting that the high ISO images were better than his Nikon D700. Shoot in JPEG though, and if the correct settings are in place, you’ll be fine. Also, if you know how to edit Olympus files, you shouldn’t have too much of a problem.

The focusing is good enough for most people. For all except professional applications and those demanding the best focusing capabilities, the EPM1 will do well.

This is a camera that us camera geeks can probably give to the less tech savvy members in the family providing we don’t mind wanting to play the role of tech support specialist. For the younger user that actively makes a camera a part of their life, they’ll become smitten with this camera. For the older generations, I’m not too sure what to say. My mother did figure it out when I walked her through it, but ended the session with, “Next you need to show me how to upload the photo to the computer.”

In a case like this, the Eye-Fi card will work wonders. It is also one of the reasons why it is my absolute favorite SD card out there.

If you want to pick up the EPM1, you can get yours over at Amazon or B&H Photo by clicking the according links.

Questions on the review? We’d like to hear from you in the comments below. Also be sure to follow Belinda’s channels!

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  • Anonymous

    Very interesting indeed! Both of you forgot to mention that thingee that needs turning off, so the camera won’t reset itself to something random, like Art Filtre ‘Black’ – which everybody knows gives a beautiful black image without any noisy sparkles in the blackness, called noise. I know it’s simiiar to leaving the lens cap on, but totally random is so much better, don’t you think? Olympus has another winner, much better than their fantastic 1400XLS, which only came in silver! Everybody who got an E-PL2 last spring will be sorry they didn’t have a teeny bit more patience. At least it isn’t one of those dumbed-down and sad GF-3s. Have a nice day!

    • Mrn8tural

      what thingee??

      • Anonymous

        Ah, you know, the thingee. You dive deep into the menus to try to turn off the rear dial so that it can’t randomly change your carefully chosen settings such as ISO, PSAM, f-stop, function button function, and whatever-the-hell you need to do to stop it from being a point-and-shoot like the e-PM1. In the old days you could click a dial, turn a ring, crank the film forward and depress the shutter button without a buried menu closer than the nearest café, and then take a second shot with the exact same settings because they were locked in, solid, like set in cement until you, the user, decided to change them. We going backwards because the thingee is so hard to find.

  • Anonymous

    Very interesting indeed! Both of you forgot to mention that thingee that needs turning off, so the camera won’t reset itself to something random, like Art Filtre ‘Black’ – which everybody knows gives a beautiful black image without any noisy sparkles in the blackness, called noise. I know it’s simiiar to leaving the lens cap on, but totally random is so much better, don’t you think? Olympus has another winner, much better than their fantastic 1400XLS, which only came in silver! Everybody who got an E-PL2 last spring will be sorry they didn’t have a teeny bit more patience. At least it isn’t one of those dumbed-down and sad GF-3s. Have a nice day!

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  • Gnuroticdesigns

    I just got one. I also have an EP2. I agree that the interface is annoying, particularly coming from the ample manual control on the EP2. Nevertheless, it’s diminutive size, faster focusing, and lack of shutter lag with the panasonic 20/1.7 make it a significant improvement for street shooting.

  • mooboy

     You say a student should get an E-PL3 instead, but don’t explain why. Could you elaborate on what controls/features would make an E-PL3 more desirable?

    • Anonymous

      Sure. A lot more control: there are direct buttons like magnify, and custom function buttons. Plus the dial on top of the EPL3 will mean that you won’t need to scroll through the menus to change the functions.

      The flip out LCD screen will expand your creative abilities in practice and the back dial will allow you easier control over your settings in something like aperture or manual mode. In the EPM1, you have to press a button first in order to change them.

      This is brief, but may help: http://www.thephoblographer.com/2011/06/30/which-one-olympus-ep-3-epl-3-or-pen-mini/
      -Chris Gampat
      Editor in Chief, ThePhoBlographer.com
      Twitter.com/ChrisGampat
      Chrisgampat.tumblr.com

      • mooboy

        Thanks for the fast reply. I’ve ordered the E-PM1 to pick up later in the week. Currently I use a Nikon D700 + Pany LX5 combination.. and wanted something smaller and lighter than D700 for travel and better quality than LX5.

        I’m sure the controls of the E-P3 would be best if looking for an all in one replacement (especially if can set focus point with touch screen), but now getting the E-PM1 as an LX5 replacement. I think I can see a NEX-7 on horizon…

        • Anonymous

          Sounds good. Please be sure to use our links and banners when purchasing it helps to support the site.

          Chris Gampat,
          Editor in Chief
          The Phoblographer

        • Anonymous

          Sounds good. Please be sure to use our links and banners when purchasing it helps to support the site.

          Chris Gampat,
          Editor in Chief
          The Phoblographer

  • chloelite

    should i consider the epl2 or the epm1? i dont want to consider the epl3 cause my brother already has one and i dont want to pay the price of epl3 since im just a starter. any suggestions? 

    • Anonymous

      Hi Chloelite,

      To be quite honest with you, I personally consider the Olympus EPL2 to be one of the best cameras that they’ve ever put out. The EPM1 is nice, but it’s for people that I feel don’t want to grow as photographers or want to put a lot of effort into it. But in the long run, the EPL2 will be better for you. I feel the build quality and ergonomics are better, plus it allows you to control some of the settings much easier.

      I hope this helps. Oh, I’d also recommend getting the 17mm f2.8 with it because a prime will help you grow as a photographer much better than a zoom will.

      If you’re going to make a purchase, please use the links and banners on the site. It helps to support us. And feel free to pop on by for any more questions if you’d like.

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  • MH

    “Focusing good enough for most people”? It is indeed good enough for professionals as well. Use it for photojournalism….both newspaper and online.

    • Anonymous

      With MSC lenses, yes.

      But it’s a camera targeted to people that know nothing about photography.
      *-Chris Gampat*
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  • http://www.iPhonecaptain.com Mitch

    I need help!!!!!!!!  I recently purchased an Olympus EPM-1 Camera.  I am an avid youtube uploader.  The video looks phenomenal.  However, when I try to upload to youtube due to the file size its going to take almost FIVE HOURS!!!!!  I know I am doing something wrong but what.  I have been using my iPhone 4S to shoot 1080 p video.  It only takes a matter of minutes to upload.  Please Help. Oh, you have an awesome sight. I love it. I come here all the time just never post. I can usually find what I need

    • Anonymous

      The files are either too huge or your connection sucks.

      I’m amazed that you can upload them to begin with. I’ve had to convert the files to a usable format first.

      *-Chris Gampat*
      Editor in Chief, ThePhoBlographer.com
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      • http://www.iPhonecaptain.com Mitch

        How

        Mitch Stevens
        Manchester, Ky
        http://www.iPhoneCaptain.com
        http://www.iPhone4Noob.com
        “Best Tips and Tutorials Online”

        • Anonymous

          I honestly forgot what program I used. I think it was this actually: http://www.convertmts.com/convert_mts_to_mov.html

          *-Chris Gampat*
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          • http://www.iPhonecaptain.com Mitch

            Thank you so much. Big fan when I need accessories I will buy here

            Mitch Stevens
            Manchester, Ky
            http://www.iPhoneCaptain.com
            http://www.iPhone4Noob.com
            “Best Tips and Tutorials Online”

            • Anonymous

              Sure. Hit up my email address if you have any other questions: chrisgampat[at]thephoblographer[dot]com

              Since it seems like you just got the camera, make sure that you unlock the extra menus. You’ll see it in the submenu with a wrench. Go through those and you’ll unlock more of the camera’s potential but be warned that you’ll be going through menu after submenu after sub sub menu.

              *-Chris Gampat*
              Editor in Chief, ThePhoBlographer.com
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  • http://www.iPhonecaptain.com Mitch

    what should I use to covert them to say an avi file?

  • http://www.iPhonecaptain.com Mitch

    I see where your not really a fan of the epm  1

    • Anonymous

      It’s a good camera if you’re patient to tweak it. My EP2 also took experimentation and my good friend’s EP3 did the same. When I got the review unit in though it was immaculate.

      *-Chris Gampat*
      Editor in Chief, ThePhoBlographer.com
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  • Adam

    I would consider myself an experienced photographer, and have discovered that the E-PM1 is pretty muc perfect….for me. Recently I have wanted to concetrate less on technical things and just go with my insticts and just shoot. It has helped alot after discovering how to tweak the dial. I shoot in aperture priority most of the time and a spin of the dial changes the aperture and a click of the right button takes me to ISO.

    Great review by the way.

    • Anonymous

      Thanks a million! :)

      *-Chris Gampat*
      Editor in Chief, ThePhoBlographer.com
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  • GB

    I’m an experienced photographer (serious shooting since 1977). The E-PM1 is great …once you’ve spent a few hours reading the [PDF] manual and configuring it to your satisfaction. Most of the problems I’ve seen in reviews I’ve read can be reduced to one common problem: RTFM (Read The F…n Manual). The camera can be configured and modified to suit any photographers fancy. Even in iAuto mode you can control Saturation, WB (Change Color Image), Exposure Compensation (Brightness), f-stop (Blur background), and shutter (Express Motions). The odd names, I suppose, are to not intimidate the novice.

    I think its weird of Olympus to hide so many things like the Tools, SCP & Live Guide – its like selling a BMW wrapped in newspaper.

    Olympus would sell a lot more by configuring it to be useful out of the box.

    If you insist on built-in flash then super glue the external one onto the hot shoe. Personally, I prefer the choice of putting it on or taking it off.

    I do think the dial/button thing could be a bit bigger. Try shooting in the cold with gloves like I did in Leesburg VA last Sunday at sunrise. But I knew it was small before I bought it.

    If it underexposes slightly, that’s far better than over-exposing slightly. Far more detail is retained, so erring on the side of under-exposure is prudent.

    The only thing I’d like to see is OM-4 style multi spot metering!

    Great pix, fast focus, fast shooting.

  • Olyman

    I don’t think this is a camera for people who just want to point and shoot and not worry about image quality. If you want that, just buy a point and shoot. This camera has some high quality interchangeable lenses and a bigger micro 4/3 sensor that gives better image quality and therefore in my eyes is a more serious camera. Also, I don’t find the menu system too complex. I think it’s great that Olympus gives the photographer so much customization options and if you don’t like or need it, just hide that menu. SCP and Live Guide are very useful and I am pleasantly surprised that I can control the camera reasonably fast with so little buttons! You really have to try it and give it a chance. I changed from a Panasonic GF1 to an E-PM1 and the GF1 has some great manual controls. If you need clean high ISO shots, don’t bother with a micro 4/3 camera. But who knows what the new Olympus OM-D will bring us…

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  • John

    I’m a hobby photographer with a Canon dslr and recently purchased an epm1 as I was curious about the m43 format and it was inexpensive (compared to the epl3, ep3, em-5, etc). I added the Panny 20 1.7 and 14 2.5 and the Oly 40-150. The review seems to think the epm1 is for novices who don’t and shouldn’t care about exploring manual settings, and I find the reviewer’s ignorance about this camera and lack of willingness to even try to learn unfortunate.

    The epm1 is not a camera for someone who wants a fancy p&s, although it will work quite well for those people as well. The epm1 is a fine backup body for anyone with a m43 or other branded dslr and even a great primary body due to its small form factor and nice selection of lenses and accessories that are constanly being expanded and refined by Panasonic and Olympus.

    All the manual controls are there, albeit buried in the menu settings. It sacrefices fast adjustments in order to limit the number of buttons and wheels sticking out. The super control panel mentioned by a commenter below makes adjusting the settings quite fast and convenient, although unfortunately this reviewer doesn’t seem to be aware of this feature, or much else about the camera. By not even bothering to explore the full features of this camera the reviewer I believe is doing a disservice to people who can benefit from the convenience, form factor and excellent lens options for this camera, not to mention this blog.

    By the way erasing pictures can be bound to the movie record button for one-button deleting instead of navigating through the menu every time. Maybe the reviewer should have tried reading the manual?

  • KKToronto

    I am a point and shoot guy and have been thinking for sometime to get into a better option and was looking into ILS cameras. This one just got on sale at the futureshop store in Canada for $279 which beats the pricing of point and shoots. As a starter, I want to know if I should spend another $250 to get a Sony NEX F3 or start with this one and maybe if I get experienced in taking good pictures move up. Would I go wrong with this one at $279?

    • ChrisGampat

      Go f3

      - Chris Gampat
      Editor in Chief
      The Phoblographer

  • adeel

    hi there ,
    i recently bought EPM1, i noticed the photos inside are very good in RAW format, but grainy in the “LF” format. and also that the indoors photo comeout more yellowish. is there a better setting for that? and since RAW files are very big , what would be better setting to shoot photos in smaller size but still a good quality?. Thanks in advance

    • ChrisGampat

      Change the noise reduction setting in the menus. Also change the white balance.

      - Chris Gampat
      Editor in Chief
      The Phoblographer

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