There were rumors around the web, and it seems like they were indeed true. Today, Phase One is announcing their new XF camera system that uses the IQ3 digital backs and includes a new focusing system called the Honeybee Autofocus Platform. This system uses a CMOS sensor and is said to have a floating point architecture system. Plus, it can focus using spot, average or hyperfocal length style–the latter is best for wide angle primes.
The company’s new IQ3 digital back (also being announced today) can shoot up to 80MP images and is a full frame 645 sensor instead of being cropped. But in case 80MP is too much, you can also use the 50MP and 60MP IQ3 backs also being announced today. The interface of the backs are very much centered around touch control. The system has a 1.6″ touch screen with a capacitive design while the other 3.2″ screen will be the one you’re mostly looking and interacting with. This screen has a retina display, and if you think that’s cool then consider that the sensors are being touted as having 13 stops of dynamic range (14 stop in the 50MP version) and can shoot 60 minute long exposures. These imaging sensors are CCDs–and while we know for a fact that they’ll perform very well at lower ISO settings we wonder how they’ll fair at higher ISOs in comparison to the Phase One CMOS sensors.
Phase One is also stating that the camera has an upgradeable OS–which sounds very interesting for what it is.
The camera also has can be used with either a 90 degree prism viewfinder or the new waist level finder. The company is touting just how bright the viewfinder is.
Besides the system and the backs, Phase One is also announcing two new lenses that are designed to last beyond 100MP. The Phase One Schneider Kreuznach Leaf Shutter lenses come in at 35mm f3.5 and 120mm f4 Macro. They’ve been given a special blue ring around the body to signify they they’re ready for what’s to come in the future. No pricing is set yet for the Phase One XF Camera System and its components, but don’t expect them to be within the reach of the modern man.
Update: Pricing listed after the jump.
With all of this comes the announcement of the new Capture One Pro 8.3 which adds support for the new Canon 5Ds, Canon 5DsR, Olympus TG-4, new lens support and fixes for both Mac and PC systems.
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“DSLRs got big, bloated and fat.” says Kai from DigitalRev in the company’s latest video explaining why you don’t need a DSLR camera. For the most part, it seems like they’re also drinking the mirrorless camera Kool-Aid. Then they go into the technical stuff.
Admittedly, you may want to work with a DSLR because of their bigger versatility and support for using accessories like flashes and lenses–or if you want to work with an optical viewfinder. For what it’s worth though, electronic viewfinders have improved a lot and give you a preview of what you’re going to shoot. Kai also states that DSLRs are loud and uncool. He makes a great point and them not being innovative anymore and reaching their peak.
In fact, most of us use mirrorless cameras.
The video is after the jump.
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“Slow down!” said a videographer to me one day when I was shooting a video for Cosyspeed in Berlin about my street photography.
“What? Why?” I retorted.
“You’re moving too fast!”
And that’s when I realized that I’ve finally learned how to shoot street photography very, very fast. There’s a major problem though: I’m going blind. My left eye is legally blind and barely usable even with my glasses and my right eye does most of the work. With that said, I needed to train myself to capture images without even looking sometimes. But it’s tough to do and requires you to have a completely clear mind, lock onto moving subjects with your eyes, feel emotions and moments, and use zone focusing methods in addition to Sunny 16 methods. When combined together, I learned how to shoot street photography faster.
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When it comes to seeing through a viewfinder, many folks don’t ever bother to adjust the diopter of their camera. But the truth is that you really should adjust it lest your eyes strain when looking through this very small hole. The problem though is with people not knowing how to properly adjust it for themselves.
For starters, consider your eyesight. If you wear glasses you’ll know whether you’re near sighted or far sighted. Depending on your prescription, you’ll want to adjust the diopter accordingly. Diopters often have a +2 or =3 setting to enable photographers to adjust what they see through the viewfinder for their vision.
Both EVF and OVF work differently though. With an EVF, it’s mostly a matter of looking through the viewfinder, turning on text displays and adjusting the diopter until you can see the text correctly. But when working with an OVF, it can become much trickier as what you’re seeing is optical and not electronic. For optical viewfinders, we recommend taking the lens off, pointing the camera at a light source and looking at the focusing points through the viewfinder. Then adjust the setting accordingly until you see them the clearest. When this is done, you’ll have set the diopter for your eye.
Now that you’ve got your new camera (or have had one for a while now) there are a couple of things that you can do to make sure that the performance is always up to par. And while you may have heard of cleaning your sensor and other things like that, do you know how to boost the camera’s focusing performance? Or perhaps how to extend the battery life?
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Nikon Rumors was able to find a bunch of brand new focusing screens designed for the Df camera. The screens, which come from focusingscreen.com, seem to be very similar to those made by Canon since they all state that they were produced using a Canon focusing screen type. They don’t really seem to say very much else though. It overall seems a bit odd as the Nikon Df is stated to have a 100% viewfinder on both Nikon and B&H Photo’s websites. By nature, most cameras with 100% viewfinder can’t have their screens changed.
If these indeed are real though, then they would be designed mostly for use with manual focusing glass as many of them have a split screen that works very much in the same way that older SLR cameras work. But it also means that your subject needs to be centered to be most effective.
We recently reviewed with Nikon Df, and we think that it rocks with classic lenses. Check out our review if you’re interested.