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Chris Gampat The Phoblographer Sony a7 Mk II product photos (2 of 8)ISO 1001-50 sec at f - 5.0

The death knell may be ringing for Sony’s APS-C line. In an article in The Korea Times that Mirrorless Rumors found, the company will focus heavily on its full-frame line in an effort to take on Canon and Nikon. The company’s recent activity seems to suggest, too, that its line of full-frame mirrorless cameras is its top priority, given that we now have the a7, a7II, a7R, a7RII and a7S. Fortunately, the lenses available for the FE mount has grown and improved since its inception.

“Besides the stagnant growth of the camera market, the entry-class segment of the lens-interchangeable camera market is slowing down drastically,” Bae Ji-moon, the head of Sony Korea Digital Imaging & Marketing Department told the Korea Times.

By entry level, Ji-moon means Sony’s APS-C cameras that are now under the alpha branding. In a previous life, they went by the NEX prefix, though there are also still some traditional DSLR-style alpha cameras, the most recent of which was the prosumer-level a77II. The a99, Sony’s DSLR-style full-frame titan, performs admirably, but it hasn’t seen a new version in three years.

It’s unclear what exactly this means for its APS-C cameras, both the compact line with its four-digit model numbers (think: a6000) and the beefier two-digit line (a58, a77II, etc.). The company may take longer to update those lines, or it may not update them at all.

“In the short run, we will target existing full-frame camera users and then attract those who use entry and mid-class models to upgrade their cameras in the long run, raising the popularity of full-frame cameras,” Ji-moon told the Korea Times.

Perhaps it will find a way to make full-frame mirrorless cameras more affordable out of the gate. The a7 is now going for about $1,200 body-only on Amazon and B&H, but it took over a year for it to get down to that price. More over, the a7 is barely two years old, and it already has its successor, the a7 II, which goes for roughly $1,700 body-only. Both of those prices are more affordable than most of Nikon’s and Canon’s full-frame offerings, but they’re most likely above what many entry-level consumers are willing to spend on a camera. The a6000 body-only goes for $550, and the a5100 body-only goes for $450. Both with a kit lens go for $700 and $600 respectively.

We’ll have to wait and see what exactly is in the future for Sony’s camera division, but current signs point to a flourishing full-frame line.

julius motal the phoblographer kfc memories bucket 03

From the folks who brought you the heart-stopping Double Down comes the intriguing and perplexing Memories Bucket, a standard looking chicken receptacle that’s been outfitted with a bluetooth-capable photo printer. The bucket was announced to celebrate KFC’s 60th anniversary in Canada, and what better way to celebrate than by printing photos from a bucket of chicken?

While it isn’t yet available, the bucket works in tandem with an app that you use to send photos to the bucket for printing. You can see a demonstration of that in a picnic setting in the video below. Despite Polaroid’s objections to Outkast’s instant photo advice, the people in the video shake the print. There doesn’t seem to be a charge port, so it seems safe to say that this runs on batteries. It’s also unclear if there’s a space to put in a new pack of instant film. In the video, the bucket rotates, but it’s mostly flush save for where the print comes out. If there’s anywhere to reload, it’s probably underneath the bucket, but we’ll have to wait and see.

Practically speaking, it would be good to have moist towelettes on hand before you start printing photos because we can’t imagine it being a good idea to have greasy instant prints. That could be the point, though. The memories you make around a communal bucket of chicken will only be enhanced if you could inhale the scent of classic fried chicken as you look at a photograph of a friend in your living room during a Seinfeld marathon.

According to KFC’s Facebook page, there will be giveaways sometime in the near future, but there’s no word on pricing and availability, though it does seem like there will be a limited run. All jokes aside,

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Based on all the success that the Fujifilm X-T1 gained, the company has gone ahead and created an infrared version of their award winning camera. According to the company’s press release, it’s going to be marketed to crime scene investigation, fine art photography, healthcare diagnostics and observation professionals. Externally, it’s identical to the X-T1, but it’s what’s on the inside that counts.

It maintains the X Trans Sensor–which the other cameras have and that randomizes colors. But when it comes to infrared work, you’ll get different results. For starters, this is a 16.3MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS II sensor that can capture UV light. Specifically, the company states “Professional-grade infrared technology from the ultraviolet (UV), visible and infrared (IR) portions of the spectrum (approximately 380nm – 1,000nm)” The standard IR cut filter has been removed and an anti-reflective coating has been applied to the sensor according to what Fujifilm tells us.

More tech specs are after the jump. When it comes to America, it’ll cost you $1,699.95.

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Chris Gampat Asta's Multiple exposures (6 of 8)ISO 1001-250 sec at f - 8.0

Is the above image a photograph or is it something else? Is it digital art? Is it something created by someone who took loads of photos and layered them on top of one another?

Even so, does that mean that the image is no longer a photograph?

To create this image, what I did was a multiple exposure in camera. Asta was given instructions to do one pose, then another and then another. Using the Canon 5Ds, I layered each exposure on top of one another. The purists, who say that a photograph is a photograph as long as it just came out of the camera, would argue that this is indeed a photo. But if the images were not done in camera and layered on top of one another in Photoshop, they very much would not call the final image a photograph.

Why?

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Hey folks,

We’re teaming up with EyeEm in a worldwide contest where we’re giving away a brand new Canon 6D DSLR. Want ot know how to win? Hit the jump for the rules and info from EyeEm

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Chris Gampat The Phoblographer Fujifilm XT10 first impressions (2 of 15)ISO 2001-750 sec at f - 1.4

Want more useful photography tips? Click here.

Cameras by default are set to metering a scene through the evaluative setting, but they have three different settings. Evaluative will analyze an entire scene and figure out a way to create the scene that the camera thinks you want. Center-weighted metering meters a scene based on what’s in the center of whatever the camera is pointing at and sees. Spot metering meters the scene off of a specific spot that you choose. This is best used in combination with manual autofocus point selection.

Most people shoot and never think about their metering mode. Then when they chimp their LCD screen and don’t like the image, they simply just overexpose or underexpose. But to avoid that altogether, the best route to take is to first consider what you want in the end vision of your photo.

In the image above, Erica was being strongly backlit by the sunlight coming down the avenue. In the evaluative mode, the camera would have compensated for this and made her very dark in order to cater to the highlights. But in spot metering mode, the camera metered for her face due to my metering off of it and autofocusing off of it.

If I didn’t switch to spot metering, the camera would have needed to be set to overexpose the scene by around a stop at most. This can save you a bunch of time in post-production but it can also just make your life easier as far as actually getting the image you want the first time around goes.

In general, the best reason to use spot metering would have to be if only a specific thing in the scene is more important to you and the image more than anything else–such as with a portrait. With a landscape, you’re probably best off with evaluative metering unless you spot meter the highlights, then spot meter the shadows, then find a happy medium point. If you figure this out, you can then go ahead and get the exact photo that you want with less attempts.