Capture One Pro isn’t as preset friendly as Lightroom simply because of the fact that when photographers go to it, they really try to create and massage their own ideals of color into the photos. Afterall, that’s part of what it was designed for. But with the Capture One Film Styles Extended, you get a whole lot of that if you’re a film shooter. We previously reviewed the Capture One Film Styles preset pack, and honestly didn’t feel like it held up against real film. Granted, the images still looked good–though if you’re a film fanatic the way I am, you’ll want something close.
However, with Capture One Film Styles Extended, you get a lot more options. And this time around, the options get closer when it comes to colors though not totally when it comes to tones. And either way, it’s tough to create a bad photo.
More of the features can be found on the official website. But here are the real essentials that you want to know, what presets are available.
Color styles: Fuji Provia 100F (3 versions: Sk, Summer, Winter), Fuji Astia 100F (3 versions: Sk, Summer, Winter), Kodak Gold 100 (5 versions: v1, v2 B, Sk, Summer, Winter), Kodak Gold 200 (5 versions: v1, v2 B, Sk, Summer, Winter), Kodak Ektar 100 (4 versions: v1, v2 B, Summer, Winter), Agfa Vista 100 (4 versions: v1, v2 B, Sk, Gold), Agfa Vista 400 (4 versions: v1, Sk, Gold, T-balanced), Agfa Vista 800 (3 versions: v1, v2 B Exp, T-balanced), Kodak Portra 400 UC (v2, v3 B), Kodak Royal Gold 400 (5 versions: v1, v2 B Exp, Summer, Winter, B T-balanced), Fuji Fortia SP (6 versions: v3, v4, v5 B Exp, Sk, Summer, Winter), Fuji Velvia 100F v3 B, Fuji Velvia 100 (3 versions: v3 B Exp, Summer, Winter), Kodak Max 800 (6 versions: v1, v2 B, Summer, Winter, T-balanced, v6 N), Kodak UltraMax 400 (6 versions: v1, v2, Summer, Winter, T-balanced, v6 G), Kodak UltraMax 800 (4 versions: v1, v2 B, T-balanced, v4 N), X-Pro Kodak Royal Gold 400, X-Pro Kodak E100S, X-Pro Agfa Optima, X-Pro Agfa Optima v2 Soft, X-Pro EPP, X-Pro Fuji Sensia.
Black&White styles: Agfa APX 400 v2, Agfa Scala 200 v3, Agfa APX 100 v3, Fuji Neopan 1600 (v4 B, v5), Fuji FP-3000B v2, Ilford Delta 100 v3, Ilford Delta Professional 400 v2, Ilford Delta 3200 (v4, v5), Ilford HP5 Plus 400 (v4 B, v5), Ilford Pan F Plus 50 v2, Ilford XP 2 Super 400 v2, Ilford FP4 Plus 125 v2, Kodak BW 400CN Pro (v2, v3), Kodak T-MAX 100 v3, Kodak T-MAX 400 v2, Kodak T-MAX 3200 (v4, v5), Kodak TRI-X 400 (v4, v5), Kodak Plus-X 125PX v3, Kodak Panatomic-X 32 v3, Polaroid 665 v2, Rollei Retro-400S, PX 100 Silver Shade UV+.
01) Film Grain – ISO 20 finest
02) Film Grain – ISO 32
03) Film Grain – ISO 50
04) Film Grain – ISO 100 finest
05) Film Grain – ISO 100
06) Film Grain – ISO 100 exp
07) Film Grain – ISO 100 push
08) Film Grain – ISO 200 finest
09) Film Grain – ISO 200 push
10) Film Grain – ISO 400 finest
11) Film Grain – ISO 400
12) Film Grain – ISO 400 exp
13) Film Grain – ISO 400 push
14) Film Grain – ISO 800
15) Film Grain – ISO 800 exp
16) Film Grain – ISO 800 push
17) Film Grain – ISO 1600
18) Film Grain – ISO 1600 exp
19) Film Grain – ISO 1600 push
20) Film Grain – ISO 1600 push+
21) Film Grain – ISO 3200
22) Film Grain – ISO 3200 exp
23) Film Grain – ISO 3200 push
24) Film Grain – ISO 3200 push+
25) Film Grain – ISO 3200 push++
Grain styles are also available as presets in a separate folder.
Ease of Use
Before I go on, I should make it clear that the Capture One Film Styles aren’t officially associated with Capture One. They’re made by a separate manufacturer.
The way you install these presets is just like any other Preset package, you simply import them. Granted, organization isn’t always as simple. I really wish that Capture One themselves actually made this simpler.
As you go about editing your photos, the best way to get the most out of the images may be difficult for photographers who don’t truly understand the film. Unfortunately, that’s the majority of photographers these days as most of you came up during the digital era or took it up within the past few years. I know this because I used to be part of one of the must frustrating Facebook groups called LooksLikeFilm. If you’re part of it and you actually know what you’re talking about when it comes to film, you’ll understand it. One time, just to see if I could throw them off, I created my own Ilford film preset that looked like FP4. It threw off the entire group; they fell in love with it and thought it really looked like film.
I’m going to quit bashing that community; but my point here is most photographers don’t understand how it works. So let me clear this up a bit:
- Capture One doesn’t rate the Daylight white balance at what film did. Capture One (the software) rates it somewhere in the 4,000 kelvin range but film itself was balanced to 5500 Kelvin. So to start, you’re going to need to manually white balance your photo to that.
- Color Negative film: Overexpose it anywhere to half a stop or a stop. For example with Kodak Portra 400, the best way to shoot it is to shoot the film at ISO 200 then develop for 320. Fujifilm Pro400H though I’ve gotten great results at ISO 400. But a lot of photographers still tend to overexpose any way.
- Chrome Film: Get your exposure right
- Black and white: depends on the film. Some are more chromogenic and others are incredibly versatile.
Obviously, you’ll need to accurately do the same thing in Capture One with the Capture One Film Styles Extended offerings. I also tend to like only working with film based ISOs. However, you can dial in more or less grain to your images accordingly.
In terms of colors, Capture One Film Styles Extended tends to do a better job than the original did. But my issues still have to do with tones and that inherent lo-fi look that only film can give you even when working with new lenses. Digital simply can’t do it.
Over the past months, I’ve been reviewing various cameras, lenses, and lights. Here are the Capture One Film styles applied to the images. For the reasons that I’ve talked about in the previous section, I’m not going to tell anyone which styles I’ve been using. Instead, I’m going let you all sit there, look at the images, and try to figure out what about the images looks the most like film.
That will in turn bring you to one of two conclusions:
- Maybe I should shoot film if I can make images look like this.
- I hate this stupid hipster look.
Either one is up to you, but I honestly don’t believe these presets are any sort of replacement for film. Further, if I were to post these in any group that tries to emulate the look of film, I’m sure no one would be able to tell the differences.
With all this said, the styles still look nice when applied to images, but they’re not totally and perfectly close to looking like film.