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Taken from our original post
The Phoblographer and BorrowLenses are teaming up to go vintage for an Instagram Giveaway! You have a chance to win a vintage medium format rangefinder camera: specifically the Fujifilm GSW690 II. This leaf-shutter, fixed lens aging beauty shoots 6″×9″ exposures on 120. You can also take home a $250 BorrowLenses.com gift certificate so that you can still rent something from the modern age.
Hit the jump for the rules.
Considering the fact that astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission were shooting in complete darkness, getting the right exposures when out in space could prove to be a tough task with no gravity and all. But Redditor TruetoFiction found the exposure instructions that were issued to the astronauts on the mission. Back then, they had to shoot on film, so this was done on 160 ISO film: which seems a bit crazy for being in total darkness with no gravity to stay stable. However, the shutter speed was also set to 1/250th with an aperture anywhere from f5.6-11.
Considering that the mission shot with medium format black and white film, this meant that in the 35mm equivalency that you more or less have the depth of field of f8. According to a NASA article, they had to capture loads of photos for the geologists so that they could study the conditions up there.
One of the biggest things that you’ll learn as a photographer is how to meter correctly. Something that I’ve personally learned is that no camera in the world can tell me what I want. And if you’re a computer programmer, you know that any machine can’t think: it can only do what you tell it to. So in order to figure out how to get your image to look the way that you originally thought, you need to figure out how to expose a scene according to what you want. We’re refraining from saying the word “proper exposure” because no exposure at all is proper–it’s only what you want it to be.
So what do you need to remember? Check out our tips below.
Want more Useful Photography Tips? Check them out here.
Lots of folks say that you should only use a flash during the evening hours and in dark situations. But the truth of the matter is that during the daytime is perhaps the best time to use flash. For example, let’s say that you want to photograph someone and there is bright sunlight in the scene. If you make them face the sun, they’ll squint a lot. Conversely, if you make them not face the sun, you’ll need to overexpose a lot to get the details on their face–which is called backlighting. The solution then is to backlight the subject and expose normally while illuminating their front with a flash. That way, you get a more balanced image overall in terms of exposure ratings.
But besides this, using a flash during the day only adds to the beauty that natural light can deliver. It can bring out details in your subject that you wouldn’t see otherwise (specular highlights) and it can also fill in shadows when done correctly to give a very beautiful and shadowless look. But to do this, you’ll need to either set your flash to the widest zoom head angle or bounce it off of very wide surface. Alternatively, you could also use a softbox of some sort.
When adding flash to a daylight scene, it’s best to add it a little bit at a time–gradually making it stronger until you feel that you have something close to the image that you want.
Try this quick tip, and be sure to check out our other bite sized useful photography tips.
All images by Jeff Gusky. Used with permission.
If you stumbled upon a discovery of a lifetime, how would you react? How would you photograph it? That’s what we were curious about with photographer Jeff Gusky, who as we previously reported on discovered underground cities under surface inside the WWI trenches in France. They were intricate and made by various peoples: the French, Americans, Germans, etc.
Photographing these places was a major historical finding of great significance. We had the opportunity to talk to Jeff about the WWI Underground and what it was like to find all the artifacts.