Considering the fact that astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission were shooting in complete darkness, getting the right exposures when out in space could prove to be a tough task with no gravity and all. But Redditor TruetoFiction found the exposure instructions that were issued to the astronauts on the mission. Back then, they had to shoot on film, so this was done on 160 ISO film: which seems a bit crazy for being in total darkness with no gravity to stay stable. However, the shutter speed was also set to 1/250th with an aperture anywhere from f5.6-11.
Considering that the mission shot with medium format black and white film, this meant that in the 35mm equivalency that you more or less have the depth of field of f8. According to a NASA article, they had to capture loads of photos for the geologists so that they could study the conditions up there.
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Lots of folks say that you should only use a flash during the evening hours and in dark situations. But the truth of the matter is that during the daytime is perhaps the best time to use flash. For example, let’s say that you want to photograph someone and there is bright sunlight in the scene. If you make them face the sun, they’ll squint a lot. Conversely, if you make them not face the sun, you’ll need to overexpose a lot to get the details on their face–which is called backlighting. The solution then is to backlight the subject and expose normally while illuminating their front with a flash. That way, you get a more balanced image overall in terms of exposure ratings.
But besides this, using a flash during the day only adds to the beauty that natural light can deliver. It can bring out details in your subject that you wouldn’t see otherwise (specular highlights) and it can also fill in shadows when done correctly to give a very beautiful and shadowless look. But to do this, you’ll need to either set your flash to the widest zoom head angle or bounce it off of very wide surface. Alternatively, you could also use a softbox of some sort.
When adding flash to a daylight scene, it’s best to add it a little bit at a time–gradually making it stronger until you feel that you have something close to the image that you want.
Try this quick tip, and be sure to check out our other bite sized useful photography tips.
It looks like the Fujifilm X100s is about to get an update of some sort very soon. Mirrorless Rumors got a hold of evidence allegedly leaked by photographer David Hobby. the EXIF data of some of the images (which were now taken down) state that they’re from a new camera called the X100T. This sort of makes sense, as it’s the next letter in the alphabet. However, the S in the nomenclature stood for speed–and we’re not sure what T could stand for.
Fuji Rumors is stating that the camera will boast a 24MP APS-C sensor with faster AF, a new fixed lens, a tilting screen, a new EVF, and a wider phase detection area. These are all upgrades that the X100s needed since the lens attached to the camera was more or less the same as the X100–and the larger megapixels need to work with a newer lens for more resolution.
It’s about time for an X100s update anyway since there have been no major firmware updates to the camera in a while. We’re just going to have to wait and see what comes this way.
As the saying goes, quality lenses are a lot more important than good bodies when it comes to investing in camera gear. They last longer, retain their value more, and have more utility overall than, say, buying the latest DSLR that will become obsolete in 3 to 5 years. But if you are into photography for the first time, you’ll likely buy an entry level camera that comes bundled with an inferior, even crappy, kit lens. Or is it? Do you really need quality gear to take good pictures? Spend thousands of dollars on red/golden rings lenses?
It is no surprise that people often hold camera manufacturer’s kit lens in low regard. They used to be plagued with issues like sharpness, aberrations, chromatic fringing not to mention a gimmicky build quality with slow, noisy autofocus. However, these times have long gone and the kit lens has long evolved ever since then. Nowadays, modern kit lenses have mostly addressed these numerous issues and have made them strong choices for the beginner (but also advanced) photographer.
Editor’s Note: This is a syndicated blog post from Wei Xi Luo, the owner of Photographio. It was used with permission.
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It’s a fact: your lenses are much more important than your cameras. They almost define the image quality that will come from the sensor, and they far outlast any DSLR or mirrorless camera made these days. But in order to make sure that these lenses last that long, you’ll need to properly maintain them and calibrate them for the best performance.
And here’s how.
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The Phoblographer and BorrowLenses are teaming up to go vintage for an Instagram Giveaway! You have a chance to win a vintage medium format rangefinder camera: specifically the Fujifilm GSW690 II. This leaf-shutter, fixed lens aging beauty shoots 6″×9″ exposures on 120. You can also take home a $250 BorrowLenses.com gift certificate so that you can still rent something from the modern age.
Hit the jump for the rules.
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